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A Few Words About Russian Lace

I did have one "Hmmm, I wonder. . . " moment in Galina's Orenburg lace class. She showed us a Russian book of lace patterns. The patterns were charted on a grid, much like other lace patterns. The difference was the decreases were not shown on the chart. And the yarn-overs were shown in different colors, to indicate groupings.

This got me thinking. It implies the Orenburg lace knitters understand their patterns. They work the patterns from memory. They know where the holes go. They know where the decreases go because they know where the holes go. How do they know?

First off, Orenburg lace does not worry about direction of slant on the decreases. If you need to decrease one stitch, the answer is to knit two together. A slip-slip-knit decrease is not used. If you need to decrease two stitches, the answer is to knit three together. A centered double decrease is not used. Most of the time, the lace knitter is only asking:

Do I need to decrease one stitch or two?
Do I put the decrease before or after the yarn over?

Spending a little time with yarn and needles, I started to practice the patterns from class. This time, I took notes about what I saw on my needles. If this was a craft technique passed by memory from one person to another, perhaps it was more about seeing what you are doing than looking at a chart?

One of the things you notice right away is how yarn over, knit two together is a unit. From what I can tell, the first rule is, "Unless told otherwise, yarn over is followed by knit two together." Mouse Prints, Cat's Paw, and Diagonals all follow this model. They are worked only on right-side rows, with wrong-side rows being knit all. They all create a grid of open work where the mesh of holes is the focus.

Cat's Paw versus Strawberry
Cat's Paw creates a lacy web design.
Strawberry creates a central fabric surrounded by holes.

Cat's Paw versus Strawberry

I noticed some patterns such as Strawberry or Chain Hearts where the decreases are at the outside of the motif. These are cases where the motif is about creating a center shape of fabric surrounded by yarn overs. Consequently, the decreases are outside the central fabric, On the Large Strawberry, the decreases start off looking like Strawberry. But then they are inside the motif as it narrows! But when I began to think about it, I realized that emphasizes the central panel of fabric. So, rule two might be something like, "For motifs with a solid central panel, place decreases to emphasize the solid center."

Large Strawberry
Compare with Strawberry.
Both are focused on a central piece of fabric surrounded by holes.

Cluster of Large Strawberry

There are several patterns worked on both right-side and wrong-side (knitted laces instead of lace knitting). They include Peas, Fish Eyes, Honeycomb, and Accordion. In all of these, the pattern is always yarn over, knit two together. I noticed when working them there was a rhythm as well as an obvious placement. In these and other Orenburg patterns, you could see where the yarn over was on the previous row and use that as a guide on the next row. In some ways, the knitted lace patterns were almost like lace sequence knits. The third rule might be, "If the pattern is worked on right-side and wrong-side, it is always yarn over, knit two together."

Honeycomb, version 1

Honeycomb, version 2

Honeycomb, version 2 sample
Notice the openwork grid is thinner than Peas.

Peas
Notice how this is the same as Honeycomb version 2, but with plain rows added.

Peas sample
Notice the openwork grid is thicker than Honeycomb.

I also noticed on the sample chart that Galina drew a line down the middle wale. Many Orenburg patterns are bilaterally symmetrical. It was common to work up to the center line, then work yarn over, knit two together. Marking a center line clarifies where to place the pattern.

There is more to Orenburg lace than just this. However, if you are working an Orenburg pattern, pay attention to the logic of the design. You may see after a repeat or two the patterns are meant to be worked from memory using simple rules.

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