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| decreasing square on left; increasing square on right |
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
s = slip
s1-kw = slip one stitch knitwise, i.e. turn the stitch as you slip it
s1-pw-wyif = slip one stitch purlwise with working yarn in front
k1-tbl = knit one stitch through the back of the loop
ddec = double decrease = turn three stitches into one stitch. Options:
slip 2 sts tog knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped sts
over (centered decrease)
slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass
slipped stitch over
For my decreasing sample, I've worked the latter decrease, as it de-emphasizes
the center line.
pso = pass a stitch over; on left needle, it is the left stitch that passes over
the right, but on the right needle, it is the right stitch that passes over the
left
dinc = double increase = turn one stitch into three. Options:
knit-purl-knit in the same stitch
purl-knit-purl in the same stitch
knit-knit through the back of the loop-knit in the same stitch
yarn over, knit, yarn over
make-1 left, knit, make-1 right
make-1 right, knit, make-1 left
For my increasing sample, I've worked the center stitch double-wrapped on the
wrong side row. On the right side row, I dropped the extra wrap to provide
enough yarn to work make-1 right and make-1 left so that they lean out from the
center line.
A basic decreasing mitered square worked in Garter Ridge Stitch (also called
Wager Welt, All Fool’s Welt, Puzzle Stitch, Dispute Stitch):
Generic directions:
Row 1: cast on or pick up stitches, as appropriate.
Row 2 (WS):
knit almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 3:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
knit to center three stitches,
double-decrease center three stitches,
knit almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 4:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
purl almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 5:
Same as Row 3.
Row 6:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
knit almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Repeat Rows 3-6 until beginning a right side row with only three stitches
left.
Pass the left stitch over the center stitch and the right stitch over the center
stitch.
Remember to always:
Knit the first stitch through the back of the loop.
Slip the last stitch purlwise with the yarn in front.
Double decrease in the center on right-side rows.
Row by row directions:
Using the knitted-on method, cast-on 25 stitches (= Row 01).
Row 02 (WS): k24, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 03: k1-tbl, k10, ddec, k10, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 04: k1-tbl, p21, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 05: k1-tbl, k9, ddec, k9, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 06: k1-tbl, k19, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 07: k1-tbl, k8, ddec, k8, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 08: k1-tbl, p17, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 09: k1-tbl, k7, ddec, k7, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 10: k1-tbl, k15, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 11: k1-tbl, k6, ddec, k6, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 12: k1-tbl, p13, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 13: k1-tbl, k5, ddec, k5, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 14: k1-tbl, k11, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 15: k1-tbl, k4, ddec, k4, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 16: k1-tbl, p9, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 17: k1-tbl, k3, ddec, k3, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 18: k1-tbl, k7, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 19: k1-tbl, k2, ddec, k2, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 20: k1-tbl, p5, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 21: k1-tbl, k1, ddec, k1, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 22: k1-tbl, k3, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 23: k1-tbl, ddec, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 24: k1-tbl, p1, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 25: s1, pso on left needle, s1, pso on right needle or
Row 25: s1-kw, slip st back to left needle, work ddec as normal.
1 stitch remains.
Option:
If you like a diagonal line running along the miter, then:
work a centered double-decrease on all right-side (odd-numbered) rows and
purl the center stitch on all wrong-side (even-numbered) rows.
This means rows 2, 6, 10, 14, 18, & 22 would have a purl stitch in the
middle of the knits.
A basic increasing mitered square worked in Garter Ridge Stitch (also called
Wager Welt, All Fool’s Welt, Puzzle Stitch, Dispute Stitch):
Generic directions:
Begin with one stitch.
Row 1 (RS): double increase.
Row 2:
knit 1,
purl 1,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 3:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
double-increase,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 4:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
knit almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 5:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
knit to center stitch,
double-increase,
knit almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 6:
knit first stitch through the back of the loop,
purl almost to end,
slip last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
Row 7:
Same as Row 5.
Repeat Rows 4-7 until desired size.
Knit first stitch through the back of the loop and either knit or purl the whole
row (as appropriate), binding off all stitches.
Remember to always:
Knit the first stitch through the back of the loop.
Slip the last stitch purlwise with the yarn in front.
Double increase in the center on right-side rows.
Row by row directions:
Begin with one stitch.
Row 01 (RS): dinc.
Row 02: k1, p1, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 03: k1-tbl, dinc, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 04: k1-tbl, k3, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 05: k1-tbl, k1, dinc, k1, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 06: k1-tbl, p5, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 07: k1-tbl, k2, dinc, k2, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 08: k1-tbl, k7, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 09: k1-tbl, k3, dinc, k3, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 10: k1-tbl, p9, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 11: k1-tbl, k4, dinc, k4, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 12: k1-tbl, k11, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 13: k1-tbl, k5, dinc, k5, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 14: k1-tbl, p13, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 15: k1-tbl, k6, dinc, k6, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 16: k1-tbl, k15, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 17: k1-tbl, k7, dinc, k7, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 18: k1-tbl, p17, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 19: k1-tbl, k8, dinc, k8, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 20: k1-tbl, k19, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 21: k1-tbl, k9, dinc, k9, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 22: k1-tbl, p21, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 23: k1-tbl, k10, dinc, k10, s1-pw-wyif.
Row 24: k1-tbl, k24, binding off all stitches as you work.
Option:
If you like a diagonal line running along the miter, then:
work a centered double-increase on all right-side (odd-numbered) rows and
purl the center stitch on all wrong-side (even-numbered) rows.
This means rows 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, & 24 would have a purl stitch in the
middle of the knits.
Note: This page is not designed to be printed. It is designed to be read from the Internet. If you need a pdf, please e-mail me at my Yahoo! account, where I am jolieae.
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